When Vivian Ward accosts the millionaire Edward Lewis on Hollywood Boulevard, all eyes were on the call girl’s ultra-sexy silhouette. Vogue looks back at the iconic dress which helped propel Julia Roberts to stardom.

Vivian Ward dans Pretty Woman

Silver Screen Partners IV / Collection ChristopheL via AFP

Red thigh-high boots, XXL hoops, a blonde wig… In Pretty Woman, Julia Roberts’ character never plays the subtlety card. Her look has become a cinematic icon thanks to this dress which reveals — almost — everything. With a crop top and miniskirt linked by a ring at the stomach, the dress was created by costume designer Marilyn Vance, nominated for the BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design in 1990.

From swimsuit to cult dress

After studying the actress’ shape, the costume designer realized that Julia Roberts has a dream body, but undistinctive hips and waist. To find inspiration and transform Julia Roberts into a convincing call girl, the artist looked at trends from her childhood.

Influenced by the creations of designer Rudi Gernreich, she remembered a swimsuit with a metallic ring at the center, highly popular in the 1970s. Marilyn Vance‘s aim was to use clothes to sculpt Julia Roberts‘ body, make her ultra-desirable, and bring Vivian vividly to life.

The open cut toward the center of the dress gives an illusion of a curvier silhouette, transforming her into a true femme fatale. Created with skintight stretch fabric, the Pretty Woman dress leaves little to the imagination.

The designer completed the look with a pair of bargain vinyl boots found in a London punk boutique, shipped across the Atlantic specially for the movie. Director Garry Marshall left his own personal touch, deciding at the last minute to borrow the beret Marilyn Vance always wore on set, and placing it atop Vivian‘s blonde wig.

30 years after Pretty Woman‘s release, this alluring outfit remains cult. In 2017, the brand Hunza G sold a version 100% inspired by the original on Asos. This summer, it’s the turn of Filles à Papa to pay homage to Pretty Woman with their interpretation of Julia Roberts’ dress. The Poppy model is available in black, neon pink, and in a mini or midi version.

Pretty Woman

Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman

 Silver Screen Partners IV / Collection ChristopheL via AFP